Editor’s Notes:
1/16/24: The text below was originally shared as a series of personal social media account posts. The text but not the pictures were moved to here for later, easier reference. One topic that has come up in conversation since then is the “Apple Guild” we saw growing amidst the wild apple forest near Almaty, Kazakhstan. For easy reference, this is the plant community that we saw in that location: Malus sieversii (white flower apple), Malus nizvedskiy (pink flower apple), Prunus armeniaca (wild-type apricot). Between the trees there was some grass, but really a huge amount of the following herbs: yarrow, tansy, oregano, wormwood, annual nettles, mugwort, elecampane, Asian mint, hops (about half the trees seemed to have heady-smelling hops growing up them), Chinese licorice like they use in TCM, and marijuana growing as a weed nearby. If you were to formulate a similar guild for what we say in the walnut-fruit forest of Arslan-bob, Kyrgyzstan, it would be: Persian walnut (Juglans regia), apple (Malus siversiana), pear (Pyrus korshinsky), plum (Prunus sogdiana), and barberry (Berberis nummularia). There is a lot of grazing, grass cut and gathered and stacked for feeding hay during the winter- all by hand. There were herbs similar to the apple guild which were gathered and sold for tea in town. There were also mushrooms people liked, it wasn’t the season for it but it was probably yellow morel mushrooms (Morchella esculenta), harvested in the spring.
Days Zero and One
Two hours until I board my first ever plane across the Atlantic. An over night flight to Frankfurt, Germany and then the rest of the day tomorrow en route to Almaty.
from etymology of “Almaty” on Wikipedia:
Almaty has its roots in the medieval settlement Almatu, that existed near the present-day city. A disputed theory holds that the name is derived from the Kazakh word for ‘apple’ (алма), and is often translated as “full of apples”. Originally it was Almatau which means Apple Mountain. The Russian version of the name was Alma-Ata (Kaz. Father of Apples). Since gaining its independence from the Soviet Union, the use of the Kazakh Almaty is accepted.
It’s mid-September. If I had a few days and was in the Midwest or Appalachia rn I would be checking all the ramp (Allium tricoccum) patches to see if the seed is ready. It’s a very underappreciated way to get into forest farming. If I wasn’t so jet-lagged, had a longer layover and a guide I’d be tempted to go looking for Allium ursinum seed in the mountain forest we flew over, just West of the airport.
I am bummed to have missed the World Nomad games, it was the same weekend as the RR conference so no helping it. I just learned that the Afghani team beat China to win the Kok-boru event, surprising no one; Afghanistan is renowned for their prowess at goat carcass polo. Other events include hunting with eagles, archery, three forms of wrestling and speed-yurt assembling. This also would have been fantastic to see, as it takes us like 2 days to throw up or tear down our yurt.
The level of hospitality and adventure and shit working out is amazing. Our third cluster of new Kazakh friends (Askar and Slavs, people who are on the permaculture wavelength and quite unexpectedly on that flower of life trip that festies in the US love) served us smoked horse meat and fermented camel milk for dinner. Delicious!!
…
This is our new friend, Andrey (Andrew) Kim. He was CEO of a tech firm that sold software to banks, but after getting inspired to save an Almaty heirloom apple, the Apport, he saved some money and quit his day job. He is working on marketing the apples directly in Moscow, and would like to start a cider company so he can use the B grade apples too. He took us out for plove and cappachino today, and we’ll visit his farms and help harvest apples later. Its in an area that would otherwise be swallowed up by development if nobody with foresight was farming it.
Post Soviet collapse, city planning stopped being a thing and businesses and suburbs have started growing out into Malus sieversii (wild apple) territory, as well as bulldozing the old heirloom orchards. Almaty is in a smog filled bowl surrounded by beautiful mountains, and I understand the desire to climb towards the treeline for new development. But the world needs those wild apples! I suggested to Andrew that he incorporate wild apples into the cider blend to incentivize conserving some of the ancient food forest and protect it from business parks. Andrew is also starting a commune, so young local people and agri-tourists can enjoy the apple farm lifestyle while being fairly close to town.
Historical notes:
Andrey’s family is Korean, from the Russian Far East. Stalin forcibly moved his grandparents to Kazakhstan, for fear of geographically consolidated Korean population defecting to the Japanese/Axis cause in the buildup to WWII.
Tselina, the virgin lands campaign, was pretty crazy by both Capitalist and ecological standards. Ploughing the steppe, a mountainous prairie ecosystem type, had to be heavily subsidized by other Soviets and washed away soil scary fast. But Andrew’s peasant farmer ancestors took orders from The Party, got paid okay, went along with it. Stalin also brought millions of Russ farming people East to Kazakhstan, a lot of them have moved to Astana after that inefficient dry land farming of the steppe wasn’t profitable in a Capitalist economy.
Humulus lupulus, “hops”
Cannabaceae
Growing wild in the foothills to the South of Almaty. It grows 15 feet up the apple trees and then kinda just stops, unlike kudzu or grapevine in the underfunded former food forests of eastern North America that are getting ripped apart by Invasives. It’s amazing that so much of the flora here is so useful. Nettles, wormwood, sweet Annie, a mallow and some kind of Chenopodium and a motherwort are the main herb-level plants in this wild/feral “cultura promiscua” (to borrow a traditional Latin term for useful edible polyculture.)
Hops dies to the ground every winter.
A bittering and preservative agent in beer that acts as a sedative.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018
Rosa canina, “dog-rose”
Rosaceae
First saw this growing feral in a few spots in Cincinnati by the highway in 2006, but those plants died. Really thriving in Almaty landscapes though! I was really into this plant at the time because I had just started to teach myself plants, and concurrently I was reading the Roseacrucean Manifesto and there seemed to be a connection- Jesus as a perfect man, or a rose without thorns figuratively. It was about this time when I also started wondering how early humans had domesticated the first crops, and asking if you might need to be in an altered state for that process to proceed, because you’d need to have a vision of the plant completely transformed to start working with it in that direction. I don’t know that that’s true, actually. But beginning with the end in mind one way or the other probably helps. I would later characterize examples of such altered states in the saintliness of a George Washington Carver, the energy-sensitivity of a Luther Burbank, the visions of a peyote-eating teosinte grower or the adderal-fueled gene editing sessions of lab-based plant breeder. The take away from further reading on the subject seems to be that one can get in an appropriate altered state just observing and appreciating a plant without drugs or ideology. Having the capacity to transform a life form to better suit our human desire takes more effort than going into a trance though.
-BBJ
From Wikipedia:
The plant is high in certain antioxidants. The fruit is noted for its high level of vitamin C, and is used to make syrup, tea, and marmalade. It has been grown or encouraged in the wild for the production of vitamin C from its fruit (often as rose-hip syrup), especially during conditions of scarcity or during wartime. The species has also been introduced to other temperate latitudes. During World War II in the United States, Rosa canina was planted in victory gardens, and can still be found growing throughout the country, including roadsides and in wet, sandy areas along the coastlines. In Bulgaria, where it grows in abundance, the hips are used to make a sweet wine as well as tea. In the traditional Austrian medicine, Rosa canina fruits have been used internally as tea for treatment of viral infections and disorders of the kidneys and urinary tract.[3] The hips are used as a flavouring in Cockta, a soft drink made in Slovenia.
Forms of this plant are used as stocks for the grafting or budding of cultivated roses. The wild plant is used for stabilising soil in land reclamation and specialised landscaping schemes.
Numerous cultivars have been named, though few are common in cultivation. The cultivar Rosa canina ‘Assisiensis’ is the only dog rose without prickles.
The flower is one of the national symbols of Romania.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018
Day 2
Yesterday we climbed through Ile-Alatau National Park, above the smog of Almaty to Kok-Zhaylau. We saw wild horses, a few wild apples, and a lot of wild plants you’d recognize from an herb garden or holistic orchard (yarrow, tansy, oregano, wormwood, nettles and mugwort). This apple “guild” we permie people like to prattle on about turns out to be the native plant community/species assemblage in the place where apples are from! Who knew?
Uber is like a dollar a person if you have three people, and helps transcend the language barrier. On the ride up to the park, the driver used a non-Uber map app and would of dropped us at the wrong place if hawk-eyed Chris hadn’t been tracking our progress on his own phone. And he still dropped us at the “wrong” end of the hike, but it turned out much better that way actually. Because when we hiked down the mountain, we walked on unofficial footpaths through the dacha neighborhood for awhile and would have been uncertain of where and how to enter the forest proper through that warren of Soviet-era micro-farmsteads. Thanking my lucky stars for that mistake
😀
The dacha district was filled with apple trees, maybe half of orchard plots half were cared for. There’s a generation gap, for most part Millenials and younger don’t tend dachas, just older people who depended more on them through transition from USSR. The free running dogs in this town look healthy and are fairly friendly. We passed this BAMF human who was jogging up the damn hillside THREE TIMES on our way down here, idk how they was looping back down the hill or how a human keeps an 8 mph pace going up a 40 degree slope like that. They finally smiled at us on the third lap XD
Eventually we hitch hiked down the mountain the rest of our way home. There was a lack of cell signal in dacha district, and when we got into range we discovered that Kazakh Uber drivers were (quite reasonably) not prowling for customers at the steep, barely paved, windy-roaded, masterfully terraced garden territory that is the interface of apple forest and Almaty city. Eventually we felt kinda done with walking for the day, so I stuck my thumb out and we got picked up by the first car to pass us. Second day in a row where nobody passed us without stopping
❤ I love this place!!! Kazakhs hail a taxi by pointing their finger at the ground, 45 degrees up from straight down, and there is a TON of spontaneous ride sharing with strangers that doesn’t use third party software.
We were the only Americans we’ve seen here so far, until we ran across some shady looking maybe missionaries at dinner.
Prunus armeniaca aka Armeniaca vulgaris, “wild apricot”
Rosaceae
Endangered wild progenitor of domesticated apricot. This one is present in low qualities in the apple forest we visited today. The pictures tree is 150 years old- slow growing, dense wood.
-BBJ
Encyclopedia of Life:
Small to medium-sized deciduous tree in native to western and central Asia and possibly China, where it has been domesticated and cultivated since around 2,000 B.C. for its delicious edible fruit. It is now grown in warm-temperate regions worldwide, but particularly in western Asia, the near East, and the Mediterranean.
Related species that produce fruits referred to as apricots include Prunus mandshurica (from Manchuria, Korea) and P. siberica (from Siberia, Manchuria, and northern China). There is also a purple apricot (P. dasycarpa) and a Japanese apricot (P. mume). The wild apricot, the progenitor of the domestic apricot, which is variously classified as Armeniaca vulgarism or grouped with P. armeniaca, has been classified as endangered, due to declining populations in its native areas of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and China.
Apricot trees are similar in appearance to peach trees (variously classified as P. communis, P. dulcis, or Amygdalus communis). They can grow to 30 m (over 100 ft) but are generally smaller in orchards, with a small, rounded crown, reddish brown twigs, with leaves that are oval to elliptical to rounded to subcordate (nearly heart-shaped), 5 to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 in) long, often pubescent (fuzzy-haired) on the underside around the leaf veins. The flowers, which open before the leaves, are white to pinkish, with 5 petals, around 2.5 cm (1 in) across. The early blooming makes it more susceptible to frost damage than peach trees, and thus it is generally not planted as far north. The fruits, which ripen to orange or yellowish orange, sometimes tinged with red, have soft flesh surrounding a hard, flattened stone, containing a kernel (seed) within.
Apricots, which are high in carotene (vitamin A) and vitamin C, as well as calcium, iron, and phosphorus, are eaten fresh or processed into juices (apricot nectar) and jams. They are popular in fruit salads, desserts, and baked goods, as well as some meat dishes. They are highly perishable as a fresh fruit, so are often canned or dried. The dried fruit may be eaten as a snack, or reconstituted by soaking and used for cooking. The kernels are also edible, although in limited quantities, as they may contain cyanide compounds. The kernels are also pressed to make apricot oil, which is used in cosmetics and massage oils.
Total commercial production of apricots in 2010 was 3.4 million metric tons. Turkey, Iran, Uzbekistan, Italy, and Algeria were the leading producers. Within the U.S., 90% of commercial apricot production is in California, where most of the production (valued at $47.5 million in 2010) was for canning and drying. Smaller amounts are grown in other western states and western Canada, and in northeastern states for local fresh markets and in home gardens.
Apricots are highly susceptible to insect damage, especially from Curculio beetles, and from brown rot disease (Monilinia fructicola fungus). In addition, fruits may crack when grown in humid climates, so they are considered difficult to cultivate in much of the Northeastern U.S.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018
Day Three
Today we were on the hunt for wild type apple (Malus sieversii) forest. Yesterday we hiked near Almaty, where the wild type is mostly cut down for dashas and nouveau rich Kazakh McMansions, but today we got out of the city and are looking for the real deal. Our guide was scientist and former director of Ile-Alatau National Park (founded 1936), Oleg Nikolaevich. He was demoted to grunt and replaced with a wealthy, politically-connected person after Soviet collapse and was happy we cared about forest .
He noted there is wild Malus sieversii (white flower) and wild Malus nizvedskiy (pink flower); there’s a lot of disagreement among taxonomists about apple systematics, not taking sides as I don’t know enough
😉 we might have seen both. There was a lot of Urtica urens growing underneath 30-40 ft tall apple trees, with an umbeliferous plant called Heracleum (dissectum I think) whose young shoot is eaten, as well as something called “nine powers” that looks like prairie dock. Higher up on the hills it got drier, and in the drier places the essential oil-rich apple guild I mentioned two days ago predominates in the understory. Spacing between the trees varied from savanna to closed canopy woodland levels but there was always a thick herb layer underneath. I think we need to get further from civilization to find the fabled 80 ft tall trees with upright structure and few side branches. Not sure we’ll have time on this trip, maybe next time, it’s a multi-day wilderness trek by the sound of it… Grazing from livestock may be keeping the stocking level down near the C line. Speaking of which, it’s comical seeing horses and cows roaming on abandoned lots and across the street at the edge of the city as we drove towards the forest. Open range was ended in my eastern US home quite a while ago, and animal ag. is normally so separated from urban life in America that it appears to be happening in a different universe, apart from the odd backyard chicken.
Oleg tells us Chicory is native to Kazakhstan but he credits Americans with developing tea from it, and Russ people are crazy about it.
The government takes a tough and severe stance on snow leopard poachers, unless that person is wealthy. He recalled Dagma, a German wildlife activist and journalist that he knew, who had to flee Kazakhstan after her house was burned down for taking a stand against the gondola at what is now the president’s ski resort.
Oleg wishes more Kazakhs cared about the apple forest. His dream is to bring more scouts here to get kids started on loving nature as young people, and to facilitate internationals coming to appreciate this national treasure.
Tanacetum vulgare, “tansy”
Asteraceae
Gosh this plant has so many uses. As a companion plant with potatoes to keep away or kill flee beetles, to kill worms in your intestines, as a flavoring, as a mosquito repellant, to induce abortions. If you just like pretty + morbid, this is the flower for you. A lot of history to dig into. Cool to see it growing prevelantly in apple habitat.
The essential oil has 1,8-cineole, trans-thujone, camphor and myrtenol, NOT chamazulene unfortunately.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018 #AppleGuild
Inula helenium, “elecampane”, “nine power”
Asteraceae
I first learned about this one from Bekki Shining Bearheart at Dragon Waters in 2012. And now I see it growing everywhere in openings of the Tian Shan apple forest of Kazakhstan! It’s good for skin disease; make a tea from roots and pour it in the bath and soak for 30 minutes, says Askar.
-BBJ
WebMD:
Elecampane is used for lung diseasesincluding asthma, bronchitis, and whooping cough. It is also used to prevent coughing, especially coughingcaused by tuberculosis; and as an expectorant to help loosen phlegm, so it can be coughed up more easily.
Wikipedia:
The plant’s specific name, helenium, derives from Helen of Troy; elecampane is said to have sprung up from where her tears fell. It was sacred to the ancient Celts, and once had the name “elfwort”.
In France and Switzerland it is used in the manufacture of absinthe.
The root was employed by the ancients, mentioned in Pliny, Natural History 19.29 both as a medicine and as a condiment.
Besides the storage polysaccharide inulin(C6H12O6[C6H10O5]n), a polymer of fructose, the root contains helenin (C15H20O2), a stearoptene, which may be prepared in white acicular crystals, insoluble in water, but freely soluble in alcohol.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018 #AppleGuild #MedicinePrairie
Mentha asiatica, “Asian mint”
Lamiaceae
This species was prevalent in the apple forest and has a good, fairly strong minty flavor. It is the only Mentha in the Tian Shan flora I just stumbled across (the better picture is from there too). Distinctly whitish green foliage and whitish blue flowers. Surprised to see there are fewer than 20 Mentha sp.worldwide.
-BBJ
From Wikipedia:
Asian mint is a species of perennial herb that typically grows in full sun to partial shade. Asian mint prefers to grow in moist, adequate soil moisture retention year-round. It produces purple showy flowers that are fragrant. Unlike the other Laminace family plants, Mentha asiatica produces an unusual foliage color of leaves that are evergreen and opposites. Mentha asiatica is suitable for wintersowing and handles well with transplanting. They do not typically come true from seed, similar to other mentha mint species, because mint seeds are highly variable and some varieties are sterile. An easier way to propagate is from cuttings from root, division, or even runners (stolons) from fully grown plants.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018 #FoodForest #AppleGuild
Urtica urens, “annual nettle”
Urticaceae
This is a different but closely related nettle to the Eurasian perennial nettle we’re used to in the USA. Used much the same ways though, and very common in the Tian Shan apple forest. I got stung a bit, didn’t hurt or itch much but left a tingling that came back hours later.
-BBJ
From Plants for a Future:
Young leaves – cooked and used as a potherb. A very nutritious food, high in vitamins and minerals, it makes an excellent spinach substitute and can also be added to soups and stews. Only use the young leaves and wear stout gloves when harvesting them to prevent getting stung. Although the fresh leaves have stinging hairs, thoroughly drying or cooking them destroys these hairs. Nettle beer is brewed from the young shoots.
Nettles have a long history of use in the home as a herbal remedy. A tea made from the leaves has traditionally been used as a tonic and blood purifier. The whole plant is antiasthmatic, antidandruff, astringent, depurative, diuretic, galactogogue, haemostatic, hypoglycaemic and a stimulating tonic. An infusion of the plant is very valuable in stemming internal bleeding, it is also used to treat anaemia, excessive menstruation, haemorrhoids, arthritis, rheumatism and skin complaints, especially eczema. Externally, the plant is used to treat arthritic pain, gout, sciatica, neuralgia, haemorrhoids, hair problems etc. For medicinal purposes, the plant is best harvested in May or June as it is coming into flower and dried for later use. This species merits further study for possible uses against kidney and urinary system ailments. The juice of the nettle can be used as an antidote to stings from the leaves and an infusion of the fresh leaves is healing and soothing as a lotion for burns.
From Wikipedia:
It is reputed to sting more strongly than the perennial Common Nettle/Stinging Nettle.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018 #AppleGuild
Hippophae rhamnoides, “sea buckthorn”
Elaeagnaceae
Seen this growing wild near Tokmok, in well drained mesic soils near streams. Was surprised by how tall some of the older trees got!
Sea buckthorn “tea” is served at every cafe. Seems to be sweetened berry juice + leaf tea. It’s a nitrogen fixing shrub. 7 years before it produces berries. Cuttings root well in wet soil, according to Chris Smtlyth’s experience with it. Can grow in bad soil. To harvest berries from this spiky thing, cut half of it down and freeze it so you can shake the berries off.
-BBJ
From Wikipedia:
Different parts of sea buckthorn have been used as folk medicine. Berry oil, either taken orally as a dietary supplement or applied topically, is believed to be a skin softener. In Indian, Chinese and Tibetan traditional medicines, sea buckthorn fruit may be added to medications in the belief it provides treatments for diseases.
#ArslanbobFlora #KyrgyzstanFlora #Botany2018
PS So I’m traveling in Almaty, Kazakhstan and I have to say, if you’re trying to keep costs down, maybe don’t go to the American cafes if you’re just wanting Wi-Fi- if you do, it’s good manners to get something simple to thank and compensate them for providing the service. If you’re trying to save money, go to native eateries and have your native friends negotiate payment if they’re eating with you, (even if you’re footing the bill) & for Wi-Fi be a free rider on Starbucks or Burger King or some other thriving behemoth.
^PS so if your native friends are with you, hospitality culture may dictate a battle of wills if you want to pay the bill. Otherwise a rapid return of a gift makes sense when people are relentlessly trying to treat you to lunch. One doesn’t want to lose face in some version of a fouled volley in gift culture volleyball/ping pong/tennis.
Artemisia absinthium, “wormwood”
Asteraceae
This one grows abundantly in certain parts of the apple forest and wild in orchards. My first gf at OU, Naomi Larson, was allergic to thujone and was borderline catatonic for 12 hours after drinking absinthe with Ginny and company XD (nobody knew before it happened!)
-BBJ
From Wikipedia:
It is an ingredient in the spirit absinthe, and is used for flavouring in some other spirits and wines, including bitters, vermouth and pelinkovac. As medicine, it is used for dyspepsia, as a bitter to counteract poor appetite, for various infectious diseases, Crohn’s disease, and IgA nephropathy.
In the Middle Ages, wormwood was used to spice mead, and in Morocco it is used with tea, called sheeba. In 18th century England, wormwood was sometimes used instead of hops in beer.
Nicholas Culpeper insisted that wormwood was the key to understanding his 1651 book The English Physitian. Richard Mabey describes Culpeper’s entry on this bitter-tasting plant as “stream-of-consciousness” and “unlike anything else in the herbal”, and states that it reads “like the ramblings of a drunk”. Culpeper biographer Benjamin Woolleysuggests the piece may be an allegory about bitterness, as Culpeper had spent his life fighting the Establishment, and had been imprisoned and seriously wounded in battle as a result.
William Shakespeare referred to wormwood in his famous play Romeo and Juliet: Act 1, Scene 3. Juliet’s childhood nurse said, “For I had then laid wormwood to my dug” meaning that the nurse had weaned Juliet, then aged three, by using the bitter taste of Wormwood on her nipple.
John Locke, in his 1689 book titled An Essay Concerning Human Understanding, used wormwood as an example of bitterness, writing that “For a child knows as certainly before it can speak the difference between the ideas of sweet and bitter (i.e. that sweet is not bitter), as it knows afterwards (when it comes to speak) that wormwood and sugarplums are not the same thing.”
In the Bible, the book of Revelation tells of a star named Wormwood that plummets to Earth and carries with it bitterness that poisons a third of all of the earth’s waters on The Day of the Lord.
#AlmatyFlora #Botany2018 #AppleGuild
Cannabis sativa, “marijuana”
Cannabaceae
Ditch weed growing on the roadsides East of Almaty. It grew increasingly common as we got farther from town. There is even more landrace C. sativa hiding in the Chui Valley. It’s supposed to be pretty fricking stiff in the THC department for ditchweed- perhaps it’s one of the populations that got a genetic shot in the arm from the Amazons that Susan Stoddard talks about. Need to look more deeply into it, only so much progress you can make per day when you’re jumping headfirst down multiple rabbit holes. Locals repeated the stories I’d heard about body hash being the preferred harvesting technique. It’s not my thing and never has been, but I’m very curious about the history, ethnobotany and chemistry of these species.
Day 4
Today we learned about how improvisational and spontaneous the culture of Kazakhstan often is. We stayed in the city to socialize and get a read on the vibe of the people who live in this former Soviet capital.
If you have open-ended plans with multiple parties that are weather dependent, figuring out when to pull the trigger on any particular contingency plan necessarily becomes part art part science. There is a balance between “hurry up and wait”; multiple parties of co-conspirators are on hold for whatever reason so you’re waiting to hear back, while self-entertaining because the unpredictably punctuated flow of coms with the other groups doesn’t lend itself to long, uninterrupted, deep diving convos with the people around you. Eventually your group or another may decide to take action rather than further delay and defer. You do exactly what you want to do next rather than wait for a consensus that won’t come in time to act efficiently on your time-sensitive day. The others will catch up or they won’t. That was the pattern of the day.
First Chris, Amy and I went to the Green Bazaar, which was full of surprises. Idk what was I was expecting, but it was like a department store, arranged as a flee market. So much flashy Chinese-American and eastern European style clothing, I was at a loss to find traditional Kazakh garb. There are several distinctive hats that go back to which Khanate hoard your people are from, and I’d like to get one of each, but it’s not going to happen in Almaty. There was also zero Soviet kitsch for sale. We heard tell the Russians are getting more and more into Red Army surplus as fashion. Even though young Kazakhs really love Russian culture and by and large want to be Russ they ain’t about that Soviet aesthetic AT ALL. As an aside that is worth circling back to, from our white American POV this idealization of Russ culture has the stink of internalized oppression and not so subtle white supremacy. Billboard models are mostly white though there is a majority Turkic-descended population in Almaty and Kazakhstan generally.
Caress and Brian and their kids came to visit from Astana, Kazakhstan’s new (1998) capitol. Caress is Chris’s family friend. She teaches poly sci at a new university, he teaches at an expat high school. We learned about many things from her, including a dawning realization that evangelical protestant expats definitely and local Muslims to some degree appear to have an edge in the social capital game in Almaty, because horizontally organized relationship networks are part of their religious identities. Older non-believers are often stuck in waiting for the hegemonic state which no longer exists to connect them with work that matches their skills and experience.
Later in the day I randomly was invited to an Agni Hotra down by the river, and hived off from my travel mates to go with the local friends. These days I prefer to share woo stuff on IG rather than FB, because I don’t enjoy having other people’s religion foisted upon me on this platform and want to extend the same courtesy in return. But, in short, it was a powerful & very positive prayer session. We prayed for the apple forest, the people and animals here, and for us to help the culture ripen, such that we would better default to supporting each other in taking care of this special place. I told people about why I was harvesting elderberries and taught them a few chants, and they fed me spiced eggplant and black tea.
Eventually our crew all struggled back and reunited at the flat and cooked our first meal. Well mostly it was Slava cooking and she wouldn’t have it any other way, so the rest of us started arguing about agroforestry. Ahem XD Among fellow idealists, I work to both explain realistic possibilities and keep people’s feet on the ground. Among pessimists I usually am singing songs about heaven (is a place on earth). These people can be a bit ungrounded. Was explaining about the need to root prune trees in alley cropping systems if you actually want to produce a reasonable yield of hay or grain between the rows, especially important in low moisture environments. “But we can just leave a 20 meter or 10 meter buffer unplanted on either side of trees”. “Yes you could, but then you’ve lost the improved yield/acre that economically justified to this more complex management plan in the first place.” What they really need here are windbreakes for their pasture. They wanted to know what species to use and I reminded them that Stalin’s people figured that out in the 50’s for their region, and the plant species I would suggest from the upper Midwest would be poor substitutes.
…
Day 5:
We headed to a cafe to meet some expat and tried sea buckthorn “tea” for the first time. That came in a French press and was very tasty.
Then we went in a gondola towards a mountaintop amusement park, because the kids wanted to check it out. Below us spread small houses, backyard orchards and nouveaux rich, gilded age McMansions that were already crumbling due to poor materials quality and seismic activity before they were even completed.
The carnival was interesting . You paid separately to go on every ride, which was a constant reminder of Capitalism but also allowed you to only pay for the experiences you wanted, which I liked. The only thing I paid for was snuggle time with two friendly cockatoo, pictured below. Caress was still with us, and she mentioned something to her grumpy kid that made me appreciate the negative liberty of being an adult and also not paying for a bunch of rides I didn’t want to go on: “We’re part of a group right now, and we have to decide together about what to do; you can’t always get to do exactly what you want when you’re in a group.” I love groups, but it pays to choose/create them carefully. This also seemed connected to the thread about religious people being better networked: how do you be contributing part of a group who benefits from membership, let’s say the permaculture community or an eco-village, without having to get sucked into drama caused by people’s painfully predictable distress patterns? My answer is to stay at the margins and do my thing, support the best leaders who present themselves, and if its a healthy and pleasing enough group, immediately or eventually put in my time as an organizer if the group dynamic is healthy and sophisticated enough to support me. Those are some big ifs!
There was one really awesome mini roller coaster, through a young apple orchard on the edge of a steep hill overlooking the city. Chinese licorice seeded in naturally to the drip-irrigated orchard. I was struck at how the natural apple forest, as opposed to these and other orchards, seems to occur mostly at a particular altitude, aspect and landscape position. Namely backslopes that are high enough to be in the fog but not covered in snow during any part of the late spring-fall.
Next we went to Andrey’s “Apport” variety apple orchard. I’m trying to plug Askar to team up with him, so he can quit his flight attendant job and take a deep dive into the horticulture of his bioregion. I hope to stay involved too, as I really want to see the Malus sieversii valued by the locals, and putting them in cider would be an economic way. Slow Food international cider drinkers would flock to drinking this, wouldn’t you?
The Apport really is a fine apple, and Andrey’s orchard was pretty nice. A lot of orchard grass, red clover, burdock and some elecampane and wild carrot in the understory. There were young Uzbek girls leading large cows around on ropes, so they could graze on the rich flood terrace sward but be kept from eating apple bark, which seemed like an imaginary problem to me but whatever. If cider for the export market is Andrey’s goal, I hope he capitalizes on the wild apple’s diverse taste profile because the Apport is too sweet to make really interesting cider. The guild of medicine plants ought to be tied into it also somehow. This #AppleGuild of fruit trees and medicinal herbs that I’ve observed is a great story and honestly is kind of a world treasure hidden in plane sight. I’m imagining an apple beverage of some kind infused with these herbs. Final thought on this, apparently they used to burn a special kind of grass under each apple tree for pest control back in the day. I wonder if it is Hierochloe odorata?
On the way to the orchard, Amy learned from Andrey that there have been Kazakhs who have been deported for social media journalism. And we learned also that Winnie the Pooh has become taboo in China, because the dictator for life over there looks like Pooh and gets his fee fees hurt if people throw up any kind of Hundred Acre Wood tag. Maybe if you’d stop disappearing dissidents we’d stop spamming you, dude.
We packed up for Bishkek and left our Air B and B flat (Samal 3, Bulding 12, Apartment 40) in Almaty. Living in a renovated Soviet-era highrise in the heart of downtown Almaty was fun. It had rained that night, and the air was washed clean of smog and revealed an even higher set of mountain peaks than had been visible before.
I love the car-sharing culture here. You’d see 20 people per mile in town, hitching rides from strangers without recourse to Uber or anything. Gas was about $1.20/gallon, and if you and your 3 friends got in somebody’s car to get around in town, you’d end up paying them for 2-3 gallons of gas ($2-3/car). If they were taking you to the edge of the city, it would be more like $8-10. Most car owners have bought their cars on credit, and are happy to share the expense.
We caught a taxi and for four hours headed West to Bishkek. We saw vast flat areas of steppe, which varied from okay quality bunchgrass habitat to virtually nothing living growing. It seemed to be a function of how far we were from the mountains. All roads had a windbreak planted along them, many windbreaks were in disrepair. They were the only trees around, and filled with large bird nests. Some windbreaks were 6 rows deep, and there were unplanted trees that had come up around those. An occasional massive herd of sheep and cow could be seen, flanked with a person on a horse. Smaller herds were left to wander. We couldn’t figure out where they were being watered, as we saw no watering devices anywhere. The only areas that were fenced off in the vast open space were Muslim cemetaries, which were individually fenced in mausoleums surrounded by a perimeter fence and topped with crescent moons. I wonder if something closer to reference conditions for the ecosystem could be found in some of the larger, older cemeteries? We didn’t have a chance to stop.
Besides making observations of the landscape and thinking about how we might try to make the area more productive if we had to farm it, we talked a bit about the history of Price Hill (a near West Side Cincinnati neighborhood, home of Chris and Amy and the Enright Ridge Urban Eco-Village). We discussed how difficult and important figuring out the “community question” is. How do we organize with people who are so profoundly hurt and confused as the ones who frequently show up in the organizing space? You do some kind of personal and community healing work to attend to the psychological wounds left by the oppressive society and get our rational minds back in the saddle, and show up better and differently as collaborators on radical projects. It’s very good to be traveling with these two. Our conversation turned to Price Hill history. I learned among other things that the person who was the model for Jay Gatsby in F. Scott Fitsgerald’s book was George Remus, a bootlegging lawyer whose former mansion and famous parties happened just a few lots down from Chris and Amy’s co-housing space. We also discussed Rees E. Price, founder of the Price Hill neighborhoods. Rees was a colorful eccentric, the son of a wealthy Welsh immigrant and himself very entrepreneurial, he became a general brigadier in the Ohio militia, worked on the Abolitionist cause, and was a Spiritualist, in addition to being a socialite in Protestant circles. His wife Sarah organized many seances at their house. After many years of service and leadership he eventually became a recluse.
We were headed to Bishkek, and this led us over a international border. We had no trouble with the guards or officials, except they made us erase photographs we took of the myriad anti-bribery signs that were posted everywhere.
Getting into Bishkek was a little disheartening. The air is so dirty that every surface that isn’t newly built or freshly washed has a veneer of condensed smog stuck to it. Amy had a headache, so Chris and I went out on a few walks around town, before and after dinner which was Russian Cafeteria style. Jessica asked about the food. For $3.50, I had tomato juice that was sitting waiting for me in a styrofoam cup, as well as a shreddded cucumber-lettuce-dill salad, toasted buckwheat groats with some kind of dressing, meatball soup with broth and rice, and a stirfry of white fish and vegetables. For $3 Chris had a burger, a mash potato-cheese-burger cassarole slice and something else.
As darkness fell, the city came more alive and felt much less dismal with the air quality out of sight and night club facades lit up. Chris and I noticed a park nearby on Google Maps whose paths were clearly laid out in an inverted pentagram, and decided to walk over to it. It was an amusement park, and a small bar as well as a giant ferris wheel were doing thriving business near the center of the star, which featured a massive fountain whose lights seemed to be keeping time with the EDM at nearby dance party. We laughed a good deal at all this and walked back to our Air B and B spot, but not before buying bottled water from a 24 hour market, marveling at their deli’s selection of roasted eggplant and sauteed oyster mushrooms as part of the cuisine.
If you’ve made it this far, I’ll also just add that shouting down survivors of sexual assault when they come forward makes you an easily identifiable asshole. I’m watching and this is not behavior I forget.